Summer holidays are mostly booked by now and if you need a break from the beach, the trekking or the constant round of drinking and eating, what about a little light shopping relief? Of course, you can buy things from all around the world wherever you go, but a proper Moroccan rug that you have tracked down in the souk and bargained for has got to be more exciting that one you wrote a cheque for in London’s Goldborne Road hasn’t it? Tom Hall, travel editor the Lonely Planet Guides, offers his advice for design tourism, along with what to look out for, how to spot a bargain and, most importantly, how to secure a good price for it.
MOROCCO
Morocco’s carpets have been tantalising travellers for centuries – which is about as long as the country’s wily sales folk have been confusing and infuriating bargain hunters.
You may find a carpet following you home whether you wanted to pick one up or not, but it’s worth shopping around. Don’t start in the souqs. In Marrakesh and Fes you’ll find Ensemble Artisanal, state-run outlets with fixed prices and craftsmen often on site. Armed with an idea of how much you can expect to pay from this research, you can then explore the tourist areas of town – though beware how hard the sell can be in these areas.
Know in advance your limits on size (wall or floor), how much you’ll have to pay to get it home – ask your airline – and of course how much money you’re prepared to spend. Set aside a few hours and enjoy the bargaining process. You may do better by haggling in French.
Do consider buying from a cooperative or rural roadside stand – the producer is more likely to get a fair share of the proceeds, you’ll get a better deal and may get to meet the person who gave your new rug its unique look. You’ll also see a different side of Morocco by getting out of the more popular cities.
THAILAND
It would take a cold-souled traveller to visit Thailand and not want to take home a piece of the superb religious and decorative art on display all over the country. But buyer beware – real Thai antiques are rare and costly and generally the domain of deep-pocketed, serious collectors. The Thai Department of Fine Arts issues and export licence for removing antiques or many reproductions from the country.
The best shopping spots are Bangkok and Chiang Mai. In both cities the choice is between chi-chi malls and outdoor markets. The River City Complex is a great one-stop shop for Asiana from across the continent, and is home to high-quality art and antiques shops. Bronzes and silks are also hugely popular, but quality varies. The Riverside and Silom areas of the city tend to be happy hunting grounds.
A little light-hearted bargaining is in order here but don’t go too hard – you’re not in Morocco and it’s poor form to stomp your feet over a few pence. Ask plenty of questions, you may be surprised at how cheerfully they admit their wares are not genuine ancient items. Scams relating to gems and tailoring still take travellers by surprise. Remember the golden rule: if something seems too good to be true, it is.
PORTUGAL
Portugal is best known for azulejos – painted tiles – and ceramics. You’ll find piles of mass-produced items all over the Algarve, but outlets in bigger cities will head towards the top of the market.
Lisbon has some fantastic factory showrooms – Fabrica Sant’Ana (Rua do Alecrim 95) and Ceramica Viuva Lamego (viuvalamego.com; Largo do Intendente Pina Manique 25). The Museo Nacional do Azulejo (mnazulejo-ipmuseus.pt/) is a good place to arm yourself with facts and, if you twist the arm of staff working there, a few tips on where to pick up good pieces. It’s also arguably Portugal’s most beautiful museum.
Pricey antique stores hug the Rua Dom Pedro V – don’t be afraid to haggle. Venture into side-streets, too. For something unique, try the Feira da Ladra (Thieves Market on Saturday and Tuesday 8am – Noon) which spreads itself around Campo de Santa Clara.
If you’re a night-owl, head for the boutiques of the Barrio Alto, where independent boutiques selling clothes, local and Brazilian art and curios open at 4pm and stay open until midnight.
ITALY
Italy is a rich source of antique prints, maps and stationery. Pineider in Florence may be the world’s most exclusive stationer and has been making delicate marble-patterned paper since 1774. Campo Marzio Design in Rome (found on the Campo Marzio, naturally) has gorgeous, modern stationery.
Elsewhere in the capital, Nardecchia on Piazza Navona is the place for antique prints and centuries old images of Rome. Try also Antonio Pacitti on Via del Bianchi Vecchi 59, in the Ponte district. The TAD department store on Via del Babuino, a stroll from Villa Borghese and the Piazza del Popolo is a stylish showcase for the best in Italian and international design. In most cities you’ll find stores selling prints and maps – aim for the older parts of where you are or nose around weekend markets.
FRANCE
Painted French furniture and antiques is a popular style of décor in the UK and there are plenty of high street shops in this country selling pieces – at vastly marked up prices – that traders have found on buying trips over there. This is making it harder to track down the good stuff, and indeed some traders are now moving to Eastern Europe for cheaper finds. But if you are on holiday in the South of France, there are places around Nice where you can find antiques markets, although don’t necessarily expect to pick up a bargain. The Cours Saleya is a fruit and flower market every day except Monday when it sells antiques. On summer evenings there are lots of arts and crafts stalls, where you might find a little knick knack to brighten up the mantlepiece back home. Further along the coast towards Monaco, Villefranche sur Mer has a small market on Sunday mornings.
There are markets every day in Aix en Provence, sometimes food, sometimes old books and sometimes bric a brac and antiques. The tourist board suggests heading towards the trees in the Cours Mirabeau in July but points out that dealers are there pretty much all year round.
At L’isle sur Sogue, you can find the largest collection of antique dealers outside Paris every weekend. Look for mirrors from Beaucaire, earthenware from Apt as well as marriage cupboards and bread ovens. Every Sunday a giant fleamarket also opens up where you might find hidden treasure or even a bargain.
SCANDINAVIA
Visions of stuffing your suitcase with cutting-edge Nordic creations for you or your home will probably fade once you check out a few price tags.
Go with an attitude of picking stuff up here before it appears elsewhere rather than bagging a bargain.
In Copenhagen, make Illums Bolighus on Stroget your one-stop design shop. Ravnsborggade in Norrebro is hard to beat for junk-antique stores where you may just find a kitsch gem.
Sweden puts great stress on local designers. DesignTorget is a great showcase for the work of both established and up and coming young designers. Götgatan on Södermalm is lined with offbeat shops and galleries.
US
New York will be most people’s starting point, but look beyond department stores for something original. The winding streets of the West Village are home to some the city’s most unusual boutiques – try Bleecker Street and Greenwich Ave for antiques and housewares. Chelsea’s small galleries and vintage stores are also worth a browse. Watch out for the limit on what value of goods you can bring back into the UK without incurring excess duty payments.
